Sunday, November 13, 2011

Plecostomus


aka Pleco, Sucker Fish, Sucker Mouth, Catfish, Algae Eaters


Life span 
10-15 yr


Origin 
South America


Size 
At least 18inches depending on variety.


Temps 
70-82


Temperament
Typically these nocturnal fish have a peaceful solitary nature. However, they can be aggressive toward their own species.


Compatible
Many due their usually peaceful nature.


Tank Setup
Adults can grow quite large so depending on the type the minimum size tank would be 55 gallons. Hiding places, plants, and rocks should be provided.  


Diet
These bottom feeders are usually herbivores. There are some that require live, dried, and freeze dried and meaty based foods in their diets. They get their algae off of the glass and other surfaces in the tank. Plecos also enjoy: lettuce, zucchini, spinach, peas (smashed and placed on a rock like paste.)

Older Plecos eat algae less often. They’ll need it supplemented in their diet. This can be done with algae wafers that sink to the tank’s floor. Sinking shrimp pellets are also another favorite.

For best results it’s suggested that you feed after the lights have been turned off for the day. This helps prevent other fish from stealing your Pleco’s food.

Most of the armored catfish available are commonly referred to as Plecostomus even though they belong to other catfish species. Most will grow to a length of 10 inches.


Sexing
No visible difference between the genders.


Breeding
They can be difficult to breed in home aquariums. In fact one site even stated that there’s no reports of them breeding in captivity. In their natural habitats breeding is done in pits they’ve dug into the substrate. Once the eggs have been laid and fertilized they guard them until they’re hatched. Once hatched the young fry feed off the body mucus of their parents.

Most Plecos that are sold in pet stores are from eggs that were collected from riverbanks. After they are collected they’re hatched and raised on fish farms.



Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Pleco Fish. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources. 

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Red Eared Slider (Chrysemys scripta elegans)



Natural Environment
United States - from Gulf of Mexico to East Coast to Western Texas.
Also found in other regions most likely because of people releasing pet turtles into the wild.

These turtles spend most of their lives in or around water. They can be found in lakes and rivers but prefer marshes, ponds, and other slow moving water. Basically areas that can provide adequate food and basking areas. RES enjoy rocks, logs, and other surfaces above water that allow them places to bathe in the sun. Like other reptiles keeping warm is essential. Turtles found in the northern regions will hibernate.

Sadly though they’re the most popular semi aquatic turtle they are also the most abandoned and poorly cared for. Many don’t realize the proper care  of these turtles can be more complicated then they originally thought.


Life expectancy
50-70 years.


Size: 
Hatchlings - Approximately 1 inch in diameter.
Adults - Can grow as large as 12 inches in length.
Note: It’s illegal in the United States for pet stores to sell these turtles if their shells are less then 4 inches in diameter.


Sexual differences: 
In captivity generally they reach sexual maturity between 2-4 years old. In the wild females sometimes don’t mature until 5-7 years. Females are usually larger than the males. Generally it’s difficult to tell until your turtle reaches 3-5 years of age.


Males - Typically sporting longer front claws, shell is concaved on the bottom, tail is fatter and longer. Their vent opening is farther from the body and closer to the tail’s tip.

Females - Claws are shorter, shell bottom is flat, shorter tails, vent is closer to the body. They are also bigger then males.


Color: 
RES skin is green with bright yellow stripes. Some sliders may not be sporting the red patch behind their eyes. Most do and that’s how got their name.  Sometimes they also have a patch of red on the top of their head.  They have webbed feet with strong claws. Hatchling shells are green with a fine pattern of  yellow-green sometimes dark green markings. When they mature the carapace may be yellow or olive green. The fine pattern changes into dark lines or patches on each scute. Some portions of their shell may have yellow, white, or red. As a turtle ages the lines and patches of color may slowly disappear eventually resulting in a uniform dark olive green or greenish-brown. Some male s will become uniformly dark gray or black also known as melanistic.

Through breeding two other color morphs have been developed. One is lighter in color with varying amounts of red or yellow. This particular color formation is known as pastel. The other morph is albino. Juveniles are bright yellow with the color fading as the turtle ages.


Most common mistakes:
Potential turtle owners don‘t realize that pet stores don’t know much about the animals that they sell. These animals are usually purchased in large quantities from the cheapest dealers. That results in sales of inbred or wild caught animals. Sometimes these animals are even illegal to sell. Other times the health and wellbeing of the animals aren’t considered.
Hatchlings are difficult to care for. They can become sick easily. Often the disease rapidly progresses to death. Sadly about 90% of all baby turtles sold die within the first year.
Many don’t know the proper environment needed for turtles. Mistakenly many think turtles only need a 10-20 gallon tank with some water with just a little plastic island to crawl onto.


Housing
Ideally year round outdoor housing is the best choice for a turtle. However, that is not always obtainable. In that case there are ways of making a adequate environment indoors. If they aren’t house outdoor their natural environment will need to be mimicked. Warm temps, water for swimming, and a basking area are essential.

They can be housed in aquariums made of glass or acrylic. Heavy duty plastic tubs, wading pools, stock tanks, or homemade enclosures can also be used. The options are only limited to your creativity and budget.
Don’t forget they will grow and will need a large enclosure. Eventually they’ll need at least a 55 gallon aquarium. To avoid having to keep upgrading as they grow it may be more worthwhile to start out big. The bigger the better.

The swimming area for sliders should be five times longer then the turtle’s shell length, three times wider, and two times as deep. The dry area for basking should be twice the length of the turtle.


Furnishing 
Turtles need a safe easy way to exit the water. The basking sites should be totally out of the water. Substrate of large smooth aquarium gravel can be used to form a slope to dry land. Cork bark, driftwood, a piece of plexi-glass glued to the side of the enclosure or smooth rocks can be used for basking.

Be sure to top the enclosure with a tight fitting screen. This prevents turtles from escaping, objects falling in, and predators getting to them.


Lighting 
Warm basking area is needed to help with digestion. This can be provided by using an incandescent spot light or a mercury vapor bulb made for reptiles.

The should also have exposure to UVB. It’s not certain how much is required for turtles. UVB provides vitamin D3 which helps in the absorption of calcium. Without this essential vitamin improper growth, soft shells, or even death can result. Since it’s not feasible for many turtle owners to provide sun for their turtles year round a UVB bulb can be purchased.

Here’s some options on how to provide both basking and UVB lighting.
Reptile florescent tubes like Repti-Sun 7.0 provides the needed UVB and can be paired up with an incandescent basking light to provide the heat needed for proper digestion.
Con of this set up - Dual lighting is needed.  Florescent tubes need replacement approx every 6 months. Also the bulb and basking light must be within 12 inches of each other to be effective.
Another alternative is using one bulb that provides both basking and UVB. This can done by using a Mercury Vapor bulb specifically made for reptiles. Used correctly these bulbs can fulfill both requirements.
Con of this set up - The cost is high. It’s about twice as much as a florescent bulb. It needs to be replaced every year.

Whichever lighting scenario you choose it’s recommended to use a timer. By doing this you can be sure the turtle gets the 12-14 hours of light it requires daily.

Do know that incandescent lights, non reptile florescent tubes, and
“Full Spectrum” don’t supply UVB.

Temperature
Maintaining proper temperatures is essential to a turtle’s health.
The enclosure should be around 75. The dry basking area should be around 85-87. Water temps should be around 75-82.

If these areas are not warm enough the turtle may not leave the water to dry off and digest food. Fungal and bacterial diseases along with a loss of appetite can be the result.

Babies and ill turtles require water temps around 82-85.


Water 
Turtles use their water to swim, drink, and go to the bathroom. Feeding your turtle in a separate container can help reduce some of the mess. However, a good filter and frequent water changes are still needed. The filter can’t handle all the waste the turtle puts out. Much of this sinks to the bottom Water changes for 25-50% at least once a week will be required.

Also complete tank cleaning and disinfecting should be at least every three weeks. Be sure to completely remove everything from the tank. Wash all the contents minus any animals and live plants. Some recommend at 10% bleach to 90% water solution. Others suggest vinegar. Whichever method you choose be sure to thoroughly rinse and allow time to dry before replacing it back into the enclosure.


Diet 
Young sliders eat mostly animal proteins. As they get older more vegetative matter is consumed.

In captivity we try to replicate their natural diet as much as is possible.
You should feed them a variety to ensure that they are getting what they need nutritionally although there are no studies that say exactly what that is.


Animal Proteins (25–50% of diet)
Vegetable Matter (50-75% of diet)
Beef Heart
Chicken
Crayfish
Crickets
Earthworms
Feeder Goldfish
Fresh Water Fish
Frozen Trout
Guppies
Insects
Mealworms
Night Crawlers
Small Fish
Small Frogs
Snails
Tadpoles
Toads
Wax Worms
Anacharis
Apples
Blueberries
Butternut Squash
Cantaloupe
Carrots
Carrot Tops
Chickweed
Collard Greens
Dandelion Greens
Dark Leafy Greens
Duck Weed
Endive
Fruit
Green Beans
Mulberry Tree Leaves
Mustard Greens
Strawberries
Water Hyacinths
Water Lettuce
Water Lilies
Watercress

Commercial Turtle Pellets (15–25% of diet if at all)
Most commercial pellets are high in fats and proteins. They should be used only in limited amounts if at all. It could lead to an over weight turtle. It’d be better to offer real food with vitamin supplements.


Feeding 
Turtles should only be fed what they will eat in a 20-30 minute time frame. Also the amount should be equal to the size of their neck and head. Since they don’t produce saliva that’s needed to swallow they must be fed in water. This can be the water they live in or water of the same temperature in another enclosure.


Vitamins
It’s recommended that a supplement be used since it’s not known what a turtle’s exact nutritional needs are. RepCal’s Herptivite is a good reptile supplement that should be added 2-3 times weekly.


Calcium 
Providing some kind of calcium is important for proper shell and bone growth. There’s a lot of options but the most recommended are calcium blocks or cuttlebones. Turtles will gnaw on them when needed if you place them near the water.


Temperament
It’s not unusual for them to spend their first days in their shells before acclimating to their environment. In time they begin to recognize you as their food provider. They’ll start greeting you with anticipation. Remember there’s always a chance you may get bitten if they feel threatened.


Handling 
Be sure to gently handle them with proper support given to their body and legs. It’s best if you do this with both hands just to be on the safe side. Turtles could become seriously or fatally injured if they were to fall. If something startles them they may struggle and you could end up with scratches.

Don’t forget to always wash before and after handling any reptile. Any child younger then five shouldn’t handle turtles due to the risk of disease. Older children should always be supervised and taught the proper way to handle turtles.


Health 
Like many small animals and reptiles turtles can become sick for awhile before showing symptoms. Often by the time it’s noticed the situation is quite serious. If any of these symptoms happen and it’s not pinpointed to a new stress factor contact vet that specifically deals with turtles.

  • Cracked or broken shell
  • Swollen eyes, cheeks, or neck
  • Mucus around the nose or mouth
  • Open mouth breathing 
  • Lethargic
  • Diarrhea
  • Constipated
  • Soft shell 
  • Gaping 
  • Red object protruding from cloaca 
  • Not eating (even in proper temps)



Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for turtles. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources. 

Friday, November 11, 2011

Oscar (Astronotus ocellatus)



Type 
Cichlids


Other Names
Velvet Cichlid, Marble Cichlid, Standard Oscar, Red Tiger Oscar, Red Oscar, Albino Oscar, Peacock-eye

Origin
South America,  Amazon and Orinoco River Basins - Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, French Guiana, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay, and Venezuela


Minimum Tank Size
30 gallons to start out with when they‘re young. However, they need to be upgraded quickly. A single adult needs a minimum of 75 gallons. It’s usually best to start out as large as possible.


Tank Setup
Lid - Prevents fish from jumping out.
Low light - Often like to each their food at the surface.
Fake plants - They like tearing up live plants.
Rocks and other decorations - Need stuff to rearrange and play with


Temperature 
75°- 86°F


Tank Level
Usually stay within the middle but will go to all levels of the tank.


Care
These large fish tend to be messy due to large waste. They will need frequent changes and a decent filter.


Behavior
Often territorial especially during breeding season. They have a reputation of being aggressive but not as much as some fish. Can be peaceful if paired up with other robust species. Some can even live within small groups.

These smart fish enjoy uprooting their plants and tank decorations. It’s not uncommon for them to put on a performance when they want attention. Swimming to the surface opening and closing their mouths Is another favorite attention getting action used quite often. They can even recognize their owners and learn their feeding schedules. Many can even be trained to swim to your hand or other tricks.

Their tanks shouldn’t be barren as they need stimulation and things to do. If they get bored or stressed it can lead to illness. Playing with heaters, bubble wands, plants, and other assorted decorations and even digging their gravel are favorite hobbies of this entertaining fish.

Watching their owners and what else is going on in the room is another favorite past time. They seem to thrive in a room where there’s a lot going on and they can see you.


Compatibility
They can be kept by themselves or with other fish of same size. Smaller fish can fall victim to these large fish that love to eat. 

  • Cichlids of same size 
  • Oscars
  • Barbs
  • Wolf Fish
  • Clown Loaches
  • Tiger Loaches
  • Sharks
  • Polypterus of similar size 
  • Synodontis Catfish (upside down and squeaker catfish)
  • Plecos
  • Pacu
  • Large Arowana
  • Silver Dollar
  • Annostomus 

Life span
10 years or more. Oscars are long term commitments and this should be taken into consideration.


Size
12-16 inches. Grows up very fast
While still young they can grow at an impressive rate of up to 1+ inches a month.


Feeding
These carnivorous fish are not very picky. Being opportunistic fish anything that fits in their mouths is fair game. This trait makes them always act hungry. They will do it whether they’re fed well or not. Overfeeding and health issues can be common due to this.  
Cichlid flakes
Cichlid pellets
Frozen foods
Brine shrimp
Crickets
Worms
Krill
Insects and insect larvae
Crustaceans and other invertebrates
Crayfish
Plant matter


Sexing
Difficult to determine.


Breeding
A 55 gallon tank minimum is recommended. Often breeding pairs bond strongly and remain loyal. About 1000 eggs are laid on a pre cleaned site. Oscars make good parents and work together to protect their young.


Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Oscar Fish. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources. 

Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus Ciliatus)

aka New Caledonian Crested Geckos, Eyelash Geckos

Now gaining popularity these geckos are still relatively new within the reptile community. Until 1994 it was believed that they were extinct. They come from the  New Caledonian Islands near Australia.

These hardy reptiles make fantastic pets no matter what one’s reptile experience is. For the most part they are easy to care for, handle, and don’t require a lot of expensive equipment or food.


Feeding
Crested Geckos are one of the easier lizards to feed. Many use Repashy Crested Gecko Diet. It’s simply a powder that you mix with water. This mixture has the essential ingredients to keep your cresties healthy. Some care sheets online still mention feeding baby food but many do not recommend.

Hatchlings and young geckos - Repashy Diet every night.
Adults - Repashy Diet 3-4 nights a week.

Crickets can be fed as occasional treat. However, it’s not recommended on loose substrate as there’s a risk of impaction if the it’s ingested. Also it’s not a good idea to feed crickets often because the geckos may lose interest in other food.


Water/Humidity
Mist the terrarium 2-3 times daily. You can do it less in the summer when the humidity is higher. The winter months are often drier so more often may be needed.

Water is licked off the glass and tank decos. You can keep a small water dish in the enclosure but it’s not required. As long as it’s shallow enough that the gecko can’t drown this shouldn’t pose any problems. To avoid the risk of mold and bacterial growth make sure the enclosure is dry during part of the day.


Temperature
These geckos come from tropical regions but prefer cooler temps. During the day temps should be around 70-78 degrees. Anything above 80-85 is harmful and can cause stress. The temps at night can go as low as 62. Younger geckos are more fragile with extreme temperatures. Generally room temps are okay but an under tank heating pad for reptiles or a low watt blue bulb can be used if a little more heat is needed.


UV Lighting
Unlike most reptiles these geckos don’t require any special UV or full spectrum lighting.


Cage Setup
The options are endless. You can go simple or elaborate and natural looking. Many use simple Kritter Keeps with paper as substrate for young geckos. Be sure to include fake plants for them to climb on and hide in. Adults can be kept in larger enclosures like exo-terra terrariums or tanks. Eco earth can also be used as substrate when they are larger. If you want to display your geckos the natural look may be what you’re interested in.

In their natural environment they live in rainforests. They’re found on the ground and in the trees. Ideally they should be given similar conditions when in captivity.

Substrate of pea moss, coco-fiber, cypress mulch or other high humidity bedding can be used. Perches and hiding places such as branches, driftwood, or even cork bark can be used. Plants are also a good addition whether alive or fake.

Single or Pairs - 20 gallon tall aquariums make for a perfect habitat.

For larger groups - 29 gallons or larger should be used.

When considering their enclosure take into consideration they prefer to climb so something that gives them a lot of vertical space is ideal. Also for larger groups you may want to keep it as simple as possible. This allows for easier maintenance and clean up. Newspaper or paper towels make for an easy to use substrate. Get creative when considering hiding places. PVC pipes, cardboard tubes, egg crates, and other similar objects are good choices. Place a small plastic box with moist peat moss with a small hole cut for entry can be used for egg deposition or humid hide. 


Adjustment Period
Give your new arrival some time to get adjusted to it’s new home. They can become stressed from the transport. It’s not uncommon for them to be stressed and go off feed for several days.

Be sure their enclosure is set up properly and that should speed up the adjustment period. Typically they become stressed if their cage is different from what they’re used to. Many breeders keep reptiles in rack like systems so that the reptile is house in plastic containers. Usually the only heat source is heat tape and the only lighting is the room light.

Geckos can do well in these environments. Most owners owner don’t wish to keep their new friends in a set up like this and choose glass tanks. There’s more decorating options and they can experience and interact with the reptile better. Problem is geckos don’t care for change. Glass may end up causing stress. This may increase if the daytime is brighter then what they’re used to.

These night dwelling reptiles don’t care for bright lights. They prefer to hide when exposed to it. If you choose to still use a tank be sure to take precautions to help them adjust as easily as possible.


Tips 

  • If a bulb is used be sure it’s a nocturnal blue bulb. An under tank heat pad can also be used as a heat source.
  • Warm, dark, and humid hiding spot should be provide to make to feel secure. 
  • For the first couple weeks don’t handle them often. 
  • To help the gecko adjust to it’s new tank tape up black construction or cardboard to all the walls. Each week remove a piece. Within a month all sides will be removed. 
  • Dietary changes can cause stress so keep them on the food type they’re used to. 
  • If you’re adding a gecko to an already established group sure it’s separate for about a month to let it adjust. This also gives you time to watch for any health issues.
  • When placing it among other geckos be sure they’re all about the same size. Always keep an eye on food intake to be sure they’re all feeding and maintaining their weight. Do not put more then one male together no matter the size of enclosure.



Handling
Generally they are easy to handle. Although some tend to be flighty or may try to bite. They should be handled several times a week to help them get adjusted. Avoid handling them in a rough manner. They may stress out and drop tail. Crested will not grow back their tail if this happens.


Longevity
Relatively new to captivity it’s not known exactly how long these unique geckos live. It’s estimated that they will live an average of 10-15 years in ideal living conditions. Some may even live as long as 20 years.


Sexing
Until they are about 5 months old they can’t be accurately sexed. When they’re that age and about 15-20 grams in weight they begin to show characteristics that define their gender. Males develop large bulges at the base of their tails. If a bulge is present on females it’s only slight.


Breeding
Sexually mature at about 12-14 months of age these geckos are easy tot breed. However, do not attempt to breed them until they’re about 35-40 grams.

Until it’s time to breed males need to be raised away from females. Once both are mature they can then be placed together. Be sure to keep an eye for any signs of aggression during this period. Do not place more then one male together as they’re extremely aggressive with each other.

Late fall or early winter geckos should be put through a cool prior to breeding. If  there’s a heat source on the cage it should be turned off. For about 6-8 weeks they should be kept in temps in the upper 60s. They may not eat as much but continue to feed them twice a week.

When the room is back up to normal temps they should begin to lay eggs in their nest boxes. Usually every 3-6 weeks eggs will be laid. Up to 18 eggs are usually laid in one season.  


Incubation/Hatchling: 
Check every other day for eggs in the nest boxes. Pure white with a solid feel are signs of a healthy egg. Any that are small or spongy are likely to be infertile.

Place the eggs in a deli cup or small plastic container in about 1-2 inches of perlite or coarse grade vermiculite. Add water in a 1:1 ratio by weight. It must be moist enough to pack when a handful squeezed no water should drip.

The eggs will take up too much water and mold if too moist. On the other hand if they’re too dry it’s likely they shrivel and dry up. It may take some practice to get the consistency correct.

Place 1-2 tiny holes into the side of the container to provide fresh air. Anymore then that and moisture will be lost and it’ll kill the eggs.    

Incubating temps should be at about 74-80. Temps close to 80 will quicken the process. Typical “reptiles rooms” should be warm enough that the containers can be kept on a shelf. If the room is cooler then 74 a Hovabator incubator can be used. They’re relatively inexpensive and can be found at most reptile suppliers. Be sure they’re set up and calibrated before they’re needed.

After 6-12 weeks the geckos will hatch. You can then set them up individually in plastic shoe boxes. Babies may be placed in small groups as long as they’re similar in size and there’s enough hiding places are provided.  About 3-4 days after hatching they should start feeding.


Color and Pattern Morphs: 
Crested Geckos come in many patterns and colors. Most of these are bright and vibrant.
Color examples - cream, red, orange, yellow, charcoal, brown, gray, tan, olive green.
Pattern examples - pattern less, bi-color, harlequin, fine striped, pinstriped, tiger-banded, Dalmatian-spotted
Morphs - Named by combining color and pattern. For example: Red Fire Dalmatian would be a red gecko with a fire stripe running down it’s back and Dalmatian spots.
Polymorphic - This means any combo of breeder can produce multiple color/pattern morphs in their offspring.
Selective breeding similar traits will most likely produce offspring with those traits. This process is just picking up. In time a lot of new morphs will be created.


Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Crested Geckos. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources. 

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Degu (Octodon Degus)





These small mammals are from Chile. They’re brown and look a lot like a squirrel or gerbil. Their latin name is Octodon Degus. This is because of the worn enamel surface on their teeth that forms a figure eight pattern. 

In their native home of Chile they live in large colonies and are agricultural pest. Whether these little critters are rodents is still up for debate. Originally they were brought to Europe and America for use in labs. Since they can’t digest sugars they were used in diabetes research. Recently they began being kept as pets. Since they’re not popular they’re still considered exotic pets and not many know much about them.

These intelligent little critters make great pets because not only are they small but they’re easy to keep and friendly. When they’re taken care of properly they can live as long as ten years. The average however is about six or seven years.


Handling:
Tame Degu can be scooped into your hands. Be sure that you cup your hands slightly to prevent them from jumping. A jar can be used to transfer skittish Degu. They can also be lured with treats or Chinchilla bath dust which they can’t resist. Never grab a Degu by it’s tail. Losing a tail is not only painful but they are unable to grow it back.

Handling them roughly or against their will may result in bites or scratches and breaks their trust. These smart animals have excellent memories and will remember how they’ve been handled and treated.

New Degu don’t like feeling restrained and holding them for more then a few minutes at a time should be avoided. Allowing them to gain your trust and come to you is much better. You can do this by using their favorite treats as bribe and trust tools. Once a Degu is tame they usually enjoy sitting in your hand, sleeping in a hoodie, or perching on a shoulder.

Taming:
Degus are fairly easy to tame as they’re quite fearless and usually very inquisitive. The first few days talk to your Degu gently while offering it small treats. Once it’s used to you then you can leave your hand in the cage with a treat. In time your Degu should hop on your hand and eat the treat. Continue to do this for awhile until the Degu is comfortable with just sitting still in youor hand. Then you can try lifting your hand a little and putting it down. Once it’s okay with your hand moving you may begin slowing trying to move your hand out of the cage.

Another bonding method is sitting in your bathtub and allowing the Degu to run around and climb on you. This is a good bonding method that helps them get used to you. Being very food motivated using treats is another good way to socialize them. Some people even recommend wearing an old shirt for awhile then placing it in the cage for the Degu to learn your scent.


Behavior:
Being social creatures they shouldn’t be housed alone. Living alone may cause depression, aggression, health issues, and shorter live spans.

These athletic and energetic animals love to play, run, climb, and jump. To keep busy they should be given a lot of toys. Things to chew on such as flavored wood chews are also a good idea. Their teeth grow constantly throughout their lives so they need things to chew on to keep them worn down.


Degu communicate vocally and with body language. 

  • Hair-raising- Alarmed and feels threatened. Usually only a behavior shown by a new Degu.
  • Squeaks-  Nervous or annoyed behavior. If frightened they may squeak for several minutes. Also if another grooms too roughly.
  • Chirping-  Communicate with each other. Also during courtship.
  • Squeal- Pain or extreme upset.
  • Tooth chatter- Uneasy or annoyed.
  • Clucking- Social call used by young. Also when young ones are groomed.
  • Chuckle- Call to young and used during grooming.
  • "Chuck-Wee"-  Greeting call.  May use this to greet you.
  • Gurgle- How  baby communicates with parents and littermates.
  • Growl- Aggressive behavior, feels threatened.
  • Whimpers- Social call and way  to keep track of everyone by whimpering back and forth.
  • Dust bathing- Dust baths to stay clean and to stay socially acceptable by having the same scent.
  • Grooming each other- Groom each other as a friendly gesture. Like each other.  May even try to groom it’s owner.
  • Huddling and snuggling-  When bonded they will huddle together. Gives them sense of security. In groups they will sleep together in a huge pile.
  • Hops, jumping, running, and body twisting- Playful behaviors indicates they’re happy. Especially in young ones.
  • Isolation cry- A call young will use when separated from littermates.
  • Scent marking- Mark territory.
  • "Boxing", Shoving- Arguing. Although aggressive you shouldn't worry  unless you see bloodshed.
  • Post-copulatory squeaks- After breeding males make squeaking sounds similar to a warning squeak repeatedly for about 5-15 minutes. 
  • Tail rump display- Defensive or submissive posture when facing an aggressive rival. Also in courtship.
  • Tail wagging- Alert or aroused. Will see this behavior during mating.

Housing: 
Cages are better then tankjs as they allow air to circulate. Since Degu love to climb around on the bars a multi level cage is best. If a tank is used be sure that it’s large. The bare minimum would be 29 gallons. It’s also important that thy have plenty of toys and things to climb. Don’t forget they can jump very high and are escape artists so a secure screen lid is essential.

Toys are ideal in keeping your Degu busy and healthy. They need something keep their teeth worn. Wooden blocks or sticks can be used for their teeth. Pumice stones can be helpful for not only the teeth but to help keep their nails short as well. Other items such as cardboard tubes, branches, flavored chews, bird toys and ladders are also fun ideas for your Degu.

It’s recommended that you have more then one food dish as they often fight over food. Make sure these dishes are ceramic or some other chew proof material. Water bottles should be glass if hung inside the cage. Plastic ones can be used if you hang them outside of the cage. Remember Degu love to chew so anything and everything is a target for those teeth.

Be sure they have some type of nest box or hut. Wooden ones work well. Another favorite item is a wheel. Remember not to buy the plastic type or they’ll chew it. However, be cautious of any that have large spacing between the wires as their tails may get caught. Shredded paper towels or paper can be used for nesting material. Some Degu may choose not to nest but you may want to offer these materials just in case.

The bedding should be aspen or a paper based product such as Care Fresh or something similar. Cedar and Pine are not safe choice for these small animals. These products have been known to cause respiratory issues. Plenty of timothy hay should also be provided for them to chew on. Alfalfa is not a good idea as it contains too much calcium. A hay rack can be used to hold the hay or if you prefer to spread it around on the cage floor that is fine as well. Just know that if on the floor it’ll most likely need to be changed out more often.


Feeding:
There are some products available especially made for Degu like Brisky’s Diet or Sun Seed Sunscription Vita Degu Formula. However, they may not always easy to find. Be sure to check the ingredients of any food mix prior to feeding your Degu. Anything containing sunflower seeds, corn, fruit, molasses,  high fat or sugar should be avoided. If you’re not able to find a diet specifically made for Degu you can feed them a mix of Guinea Pig and Chinchilla pellets.


Fresh vegetables should be fed daily. 
Broccoli, romaine lettuce, parsley, carrot greens, escarole, zucchini, chicory, cucumbers, and celery.
Should avoid anything too high in calcium: mustard greens, dandelion greens, spinach, turnip greens, collard greens, alfalfa greens.
Carrots and cooked sweet potatoes without the skin can be fed once or twice a week as a treat.
Treats: dried carrot slices and sugar free cereals.
Occasional treats: sunflower seeds, corn, and walnuts.
Never feed: sugary or fatty foods, caffeine, chocolate, or alcohol.
Remember to always provide fresh water.
Provide unlimited supply of timothy hay.
Best to avoid fruits completely rather then risk too much sugar intake as they aren’t able to digest sugars properly.


Cleaning and Grooming:
Cleaning should be done at least once a week for a pair of Degu. If they tend to be messy you may have to clean more then once a week. Once a month an entire scrubbing of the cage, dishes, and toys should be done. If the Degu are litter trained then the litter box will need to be cleaned out at least every other day. Bedding should be changed once a month.

Water should be changed every other day and the water and clean the bottle daily as they’re prone to mouth diseases.

Although they groom themselves they’ll still need to have dust baths, A special Chinchilla dust can be purchased at any pet store. You simply pour some dust into a container and place it into the cage. The Degu will instinctively know how to use it. It’s not recommended that you leave it in longer then ten minutes or it’ll most likely be used as a toilet. Dust baths are needed at least once a week though they can have them daily.

It’s essential for a Degu to have dust baths. It helps to keep their fur healthy. Some people leave the baths in the cage and change the dust daily. The Degu will use it like a litter box and it can make cage cleaning easier.

Some Degus may need their nails clipped on occasion. A vet can show you how to safely do this. Nail clippers used for dogs or cats can be used. Simply clip the very tip of the nail that way you don’t risk clipping the quick. Teeth may need to be clipped by a vet if they don’t have anything to gnaw on.


Learning it’s name: 
Always use their name when addressing the Degu. Stick with just their name and not nicknames. When you use their name and they respond by coming to you be sure to praise them and even give them a little treat. Repetition will result in them coming each time they’re
called.


Shoulder rides:
A difficult task that some may not learn. Once a Degu trusts you and climbs on your hand you can lure it up your arm with a treat. When it learns that part continue the teaching by luring them up to your shoulder. Again, reward the behavior with a beloved treat. While it enjoys the treat praise them for a job well done. If they enjoy being petted you can add that to their reward.

If the Degu steals the treat and runs then you’ll have to hold it. Do this several times over the course of a week. If the Degu starts to get off your shoulder gently put it back on. Give it a treat once it sits still. Often they catch onto this trick quickly.  

The next step will be to walk around while they’re perched on your shoulder. Soon they’ll enjoy this new adventure. Always be cautious to prevent them from falling or jumping.        


Litter training:
You can leave a dust bath in the cage and the Degu will use it as their litter box. Or you can purchase a small animal litter boxes and put the in the areas your Degu goes to the bathroom. Like most small animals it’ll be in a corner. To attract them you can put some hay in the boxes. When you see them using the boxes praise them. Place any stray droppings in the litter box to remind them where it’s supposed to go. Though many should catch on there will be some that just flat out refuse to ever properly use a litter box.


Exercise and Playtime:
Many Degus enjoy playing outside of their cage. Be sure you take care of any potential dangers before allowing them this bit of freedom. Electrical wires, plants, sharp objects and other chewable objects should be taken care of. Also be sure they can’t squeeze into small spaces, jump or fall off stuff, or climb out of your reach. Bathtubs are a good place to play. Exercise pens can also be used as well. Like with any animal they should never be left unsupervised.

Include things to climb on, places to hide, and even their dust bath in their play area. They should be let out of their cage at least five days a week for about an hour or two. The smaller the cage the more time they should get outside of it.


Breeding:
Degu breeding is not recommended. They can produce a lot of offspring. You won’t be able to separate them after their first litter because they’ll be bonded. Both parents participate in the rearing of the babies.

Females have a post partum estrus which means they can and will mate right after giving birth. This adds stress to the female and should be avoided.

They are usually sexually mature between 9 and 14 months of age. Some have been known to begin as early as 6 months and some not until 21 moths. At 8-9 weeks the females can become pregnant by their father so it’s important that they be separated by that age.

Gestation is about 90 days. Babies are born with fur and open eyes. The average litter is 5 babies but they can have twice that. It’s rare that there’s only 1 baby in a litter. In these rare cases that it does happen the baby usually doesn’t survive.

There is not a lot of breeding information online. It’s best to either completely avoid breeding or seek help from a breeder.


Neutering:
This may not always be an option. Not only is this often expensive but many vets don’t have enough knowledge about these creatures so they won’t perform the procedure.


Diseases:
Usually they’re hardy animal. However, there is always a chance they may become ill.. Here’s a list of common issues to watch for. It’s best to consult an exotic vet if you ever have any issues.

  • Diabetes: Degus become diabetic by eating too much sugar. A diabetic degu will usually not last very long (though I've heard of degus living with diabetes for years). To prevent this from happening, don't feed your degu sugary foods. A degu that is drinking and/or urinating more then usual may be diabetic. Sometimes they will also get cataracts.
  • Liver Problems: Caused by a bad diet or too many fatty foods.
  • Mouth Disease: Prone to mouth diseases. Their teeth will turn white which usually results in death. Change their water and wash the bottle often to help prevent this.
  • Cold: Not able to clear it’s nose or having trouble breathing. Antibiotics are needed to help prevent pneumonia.
  • Genetic Diseases: Cataracts is a common due to inbreeding,  Incurable but a good diet may help.
  • Parasites: If scratching a lot check them for fleas, mites, or ticks. It may be an ear infection due to a mite infestation if the ears are painful to the touch or smell bad. Parasites can come from hay, bedding, or even other animals. A vet can give you medication to treat an outbreak.  
  • Wounds: Usually a result from fighting. Wound should heal on its own, You can put Neosporin on a wound to help prevent infection. However, if it’s large or doesn’t heal quickly a vet should check it. 
  • Broken leg: May be a result from a bad jump. If a broken leg does occur you should contact your vet. Pain medication might be recommended. Be sure to keep the Degu calm and in a small one level cage with limited access to climbing while it heals.
  • Diarrhea: Occurs when too many fresh veggies are fed. Stop feeding any fresh vegs or fruits for awhile and it should go away. Can be a sign of illness so keep a close eye on the situation. Contact a vet if the situation doesn’t clear up or other symptoms come up. 
  • Constipation: The cause is unknown but it’s most likely due to a bad diet. This is very uncomfortable and causes depression. Some have been able to overcome the situation by massaging the belly with olive oil. If the situation doesn’t’ improve within a few hours go to the vet IMMEDIATELY.
  • Tumors: If any tumors are found be sure to consult your vet. 




Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Degus. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources. 

Bearded Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps)



The “Inland Bearded Dragon” is native to eastern continental Australia. These days most dragons on the market are captive bred. They get their name from the pronounced beards that both the male and female have. The amazing beards are used in defense or during their mating rituals. Males typically have a darker beard that look pitch black. These days Dragons can come in an assortment of colors and morphs. From normal sandy color to red, yellow, orange, and gold hues. 


Temperament
These easy going generally docile lizards make excellent pets. If properly supervised they make wonderful pets for children. They’re relatively easy to care for. Though they may look intimidating with their prehistoric dinosaur appearance they’re usually quite tame and easy to handle. They are active during the day and sleep at night so their schedule can be easily adapted to yours.

These interesting creatures seem to enjoy the attention from their humans. It’s not uncommon to see them pacing their tank and trying everything to get noticed. Though like any animal their personalities do vary some may be more personable then others. Overall these unique reptiles make a great addition no matter your experience with reptiles.


Size
Hatchlings are usually under 4 inches in length and weigh only about 1/10 of an ounce. Adults typically weigh about ¾ o a pound and reach about 19-23 inches long. Morphs like the German Giant are known to be a bit larger, coming in at about 26 inches in length.


Housing
Dragons are commonly kept in glass aquariums topped of with screen lids. Though some hobbyists and breeders may use custom wood or plastic cages. The wood is sometimes harder to clean. The light weight plastic is easier to clean but often costs a great deal more.

For the first 4-6 months babies can be kept in 30 inch long tanks. If they’re kept in anything larger at that age it can sometimes cause problems. Finding it’s food, water, shelter, and basking shelter may pose an issue for the young dragons. However, as the young ones grow a larger enclosure will need to be used.

For one to two adults it’s recommended that at the very minimum their enclosures should be 4ftx2ft. Tanks shouldn’t be any smaller then 6ftx18inches. Single adults shouldn’t be in anything smaller then your standard 55 gallon tank. Smaller tanks restrict activity and that’s not healthy for the dragon.


Substrate
Depending on who you ask the answer on what the best substrate is varies. The best thing to do is seek advice from those with experience. Always do your research. Ultimately you must decide what works best for you while keeping the dragon’s safety in mind. 

  • Wood - This bedding is not recommended since the crickets and other feeder bugs often find places to hide. This makes it difficult for the dragons to find their food source. Crickets will out during the night while your dragon is sleeping and harass it causing them stress. 
  • Sand or fine gravel - Often used and recommended. This is the most natural substrate for your dragon. Cleaning is much easier then many other types. However, there is a risk of impaction so that needs to be considered. 
  • Rabbit or alfalfa pellets - Also used by dragon owners. The downside of this type though is there’s a higher risk for mold. When the pellets get wet they crumble quickly and if not cleaned up quick enough mold can be an issue..
  • Paper towels and newspaper - This is a reasonably sage and cheap choice. Clean up is usually not difficult. It’s especially good to use for young dragons to prevent the possibility of impaction due to accidental ingestion. 
  • Reptile carpet - Another popular choice. You can cut it to size. It gives a rather clean and neat look. However, that won’t last for long. The upside is it can be removed and washed frequently. Do be careful that’s there’s no loose ends that may pose a problem for your dragon. 

Heating              
Bearded Dragons like many reptiles need to be properly warmed to properly digest their food and remain healthy. Though you can use heat pads to raise temps they enjoy basking under a light. You can buy the expense light bulbs in the pet stores. Unfortunately they often have a short lifespan. Many choose to use regular light bulbs. Not the new energy saving funky shaped ones that don’t give up much heat.

Do not ever use heating rocks with dragons. Instead you can put a flat rock or logs to climb on. The dragon will sprawl on them and bask for hours. The basking area should be at one end of the tank. Dragons are desert animals so they enjoy the hot temperatures. However, too much is not good for them. It’s important that they have a cooler end so that they can regulate accordingly.

On the cool side temps should be around 76 and at least 10 degrees or more on the warmer side. Basking area should be about 90-100. At night the temps can drop down to about low to mid 70s on the cooler side. If your home dips below that you may want to use another heat source such as a heat pad, ceramic heat emitter, or a colored night bulb especially made for reptiles. Do not use any bright lights at night as they need to have a light cycle about 12-14 hours. Timers can be used to ensure the dragon is getting the proper lighting cycle

UVA/UVB lighting must also be used. It activates the synthesis of vitamin D3. This an important component for calcium and mineral absorption. UV rays are filtered out through glass so it’s important to place the bulbs above the tank. It’s been said that the screen tops also filter some of the rays as well. However, to protect your dragon from touching the lights or predators screens are most often used anyway. It’s also recommended that a UVA/UVB bulb be changed about every six months. You may choose to place your tank near a window for some natural lighting. Be careful to monitor the temps.


Cleaning
Cages should be spot cleaned daily. If you’re using sand then the waste can be easily scooped. Tank décor like logs and rocks should be wipe. Food bowls should be washed between each meal. At least once a week a complete clean up should be done.


Grooming
Being they’re reptiles they obviously don’t need grooming. They do enjoy their baths. Also misting daily can help keep their skin humidified and helps with the shedding process. Remember though to prevent the tank from being damp as it can lead to mold and health issues.

Feeding
Bearded Dragons need to be fed a combo of vegetables and live bugs. Some fruit can be used on occasion. The significant part of the diet should be vegetables. Hatchlings and Juveniles 10-25% and 30-50% for adults.

Although the main choices especially for young dragons are dark leafy greens high in calcium and crickets variety is important. Mealworms, wax worms, and roaches can also be used as live food sources. It’s not recommended that you catch anything outside for your dragon. The risks to their health including death are too high.

Make sure that any food you give your dragon is an appropriate sized. You can finely chop the greens and fruits. To help prevent choking and blockage while digesting be sure the food source is smaller then the width between the dragon’s eyes.


Foods Ideas
Apples
Apricot
Bananas
Blueberries
Cantaloupe
Figs
Grapes
Kiwi
Mango
Melon
Papaya
Peaches
Pears
Pomegranate Seeds
Strawberries
Arugula 
Basil
Beet Greens
Bok Choy
Carrots
Chard
Cilantro
Clovers
Collards
Dandelion
Escarole
Kale
Mustard Greens
Parsley
Parsnip
Broccoli
Corn
Cucumbers
Green Beans
Green Peppers
Kidney Beans
Lima Beans
Okra
Peas
Squash
Sweet Potato
Turnip Greens
Watercress
Zucchini
Calendula
Cactus
Flowers
Grass
Hibiscus
Leaves
Rose Blossoms
Yucca Root
Crickets
Lobster Roaches
Mealworms
Phoenix Worms
Roaches
Wax Worms


Exercise
If your dragon’s enclosure is large enough it should provide adequate room for exercise.


Life Expectancy
5-8 years, some have even made it to 12


Health Problems
For the most part Bearded Dragons are quite healthy. If they’re given the proper care and food they can live without any issues. However, there are some health problems to be aware of.

Calcium/D3 deficiency
Respiratory infections
Internal parasites and mites
Gastro infections
Pseudomona
Cocidia
Partial paralysis associated with hind leg extension
Egg Binding

Also be aware that if you house multiple baby dragons together it’s not uncommon for tail, toes, and fingers to be nipped. Dragons can’t regenerate these body parts so if they’re lost in the struggle is permanent.


Sexing
Until Bearded Dragons are about a year old they are often very difficult to tell females from males. At this age they are sexually mature and it’s easier to determine gender.

Males have triangular shaped heads. Their femoral pores (dots on the hind legs) are larger. Also two bumps on the tail near the vent can be seen.

Females heads are more narrow. Their personalities are often different then males. When they come in contact with another dragon they often wave instead of bob. Although both genders do these actions. Instead of two bumps near the vent they have one it’s more in the center versus on both sides.


Gestation
Males and females shouldn’t be housed together until they’re at least two years of age. If you’re not planning to breed them they shouldn’t be housed together at all.

The bones of the female dragon have not developed enough to withstand the loss of calcium and they’d have problems passing their eggs easily. Eggs are often reabsorbed and it’s not evident whether they had produced any. Some eggs may be creamy yellow in color and odd shaped. The abnormal eggs may end up binding up in the dragon. Due to these high risks females shouldn’t be bred unless they’re at least 2 years old.

February is usually the time of year dragons mate. The gestation period is about five weeks. Couple weeks prior to laying eggs the female will need some type of sand peat mixture to place her eggs. Typically they’ll lay about 20-30 eggs. For about 65-75 days the eggs should be incubated at about 82-84 degrees. The eggs will start to collapse about 24 hours before they’re due to hatch.

Baby dragons should be in the incubator for about 24 hours to allow for the absorbing of the yolk sac. Within 72 hours they’ll then start to feed. Pinhead crickets are ideal for this age.


Picking your Bearded Dragon
Be careful when choosing your future friend. Whether you choose to buy from a breeder or a pet store take your time. Dragons should be alert and active. If they are lethargic it’s a good chance something is wrong. Beardies bright alert eyes seem to always be watching what’s going on around them with great interest.

Keep an eye open for any sores, external parasites, burns, or deformities. Their eyes, mouths, and noses need to be gunk and pus free. It’s not uncommon to have nips but this shouldn’t cause any issues if the wounds are healed and don’t show signs of infection. Take in consideration the size of the dragon. If they’re too small or fragile looking they may stress easily causing health issues.


Common Behaviors
Dragons are predators and prey in their natural environment. Their basic defense is hide, to blend in with their environment, and always be alert to possible threats.

If dragons feel threatened or anxious they stand perfectly still. If they’re in real danger they either scamper away or they attack. Their attacks are impressive with wide mouths and puffed beards. Last resort they can and do bite hard.


Waving - In a multiple dragon home it’s not uncommon to see them wave their front arms at each other. This is their form of social signaling. Solitary beardies may do it as well.


Flattening Out - When they are warming up they may lie horizontally and spread out their abdomen to increase surface size. This typically isn’t a big deal. However, if the dragon is doing this often it may mean they can’t get close enough to their heating lamp. You can make him a shelf or perching area so that they can get closer.

Mouth Gaping - If a dragon is standing with it’s mouth open in a non defensive way it may mean they’re too hot. They can cool off a little by doing this. This is not their preferred way to cool. If you that they’re doing this often it means their enclosure is too warm. You can replace the heat lamp with a lower wattage. If after that is done and it’s still doing this it could be a sign of respiratory illness. It’s recommended that you seek a vet quickly


Rubbing - Sometimes they rub or scratch themselves against sticks or rocks. This is often done to help loose pieces of shedding skin. Try misting the dragon with water if you see this behavior. This should help with the shedding process. 


Hiding and Burrowing - At night they like to hide during the night or when they need to cool down. Dragons may also burrow into their substrate if it’s thick enough. Branches and food dishes may also act as a hiding place. As long as the dragon makes appearances during the day to warm up it’s normal. In the winter it may be a sign they want to brumate. 


Handling
Dragons are smaller and have a more predictable behavior then many other reptiles. Combined this makes them a great choice for any expertise level. Handling them safely and careful helps them become comfortable with you. This also makes them friendlier. To keep them comfortable in your presence they need to be handled daily. Start out gradually and don’t overdo it.


How 
Let them hold you. Gently grasp under the chest and midsection behind forelegs. Be sure to keep your hand open partially so that the dragon can step on you with it’s back feet. Allow them step onto your arm, shoulder, or other hand.


Handling tail
Never handle dragons by their tail. Always use caution when closing lids and doors. Their delicate tails can get injured and they won’t grow back.


Hand feeding
Another good way to build a relationship with your dragon is teach them to feed from your hand. You can start by offering them a large piece of  their favorite greens. Allow the dragon to take bites of the leaf but don’t allow him to take it. After several days offer smaller and smaller pieces. Be sure keep your grip. In time the Dragon should learn to ignore your hand completely while enjoying their food. Don’t hand feed every single time or it may lead to your dragon being reluctant to each from their dish.


Sanitation
Remember to always wash with soap and water after handling any reptile. Bearded Dragons are no exception to this. Washing your hands thoroughly after cleaning their cages and waste is very important. Diseases like salmonella and cryptosporidiosis can be spread from dragon to person. Stressed or ill dragons can have an increased chance of harboring disease organisms in their droppings. Be sure to especially cautious when caring for sick or injured dragons.



Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for these reptiles. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources. 

Introduction

This page was created in honor of all my critters. (Hence the name.) I've got several pages that cater to specific dog breeds/types. It seemed only fitting that this one was catered towards all the species/breeds that we have in our family. I've done research and made up some care sheets. I'll also share pictures and other random stuff eventually.

I love to learn and research things that interest me. This is especially true when it comes to any animals that I have an interest in. Whether I've always owned them, just now got them, or plan /hope to in the future research is important to me. You can never know everything and I truly believe that a good pet parent is always seeking the latest helpful information.

The world is filled with homeless animals due to people not following through or even teaching  themselves what the needs are of  their newest addition. Please don't allow this to happen to any of your beloved critters. Continue to teach yourself. They can only prosper from your continued knowledge.