Thursday, November 10, 2011

Bearded Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps)



The “Inland Bearded Dragon” is native to eastern continental Australia. These days most dragons on the market are captive bred. They get their name from the pronounced beards that both the male and female have. The amazing beards are used in defense or during their mating rituals. Males typically have a darker beard that look pitch black. These days Dragons can come in an assortment of colors and morphs. From normal sandy color to red, yellow, orange, and gold hues. 


Temperament
These easy going generally docile lizards make excellent pets. If properly supervised they make wonderful pets for children. They’re relatively easy to care for. Though they may look intimidating with their prehistoric dinosaur appearance they’re usually quite tame and easy to handle. They are active during the day and sleep at night so their schedule can be easily adapted to yours.

These interesting creatures seem to enjoy the attention from their humans. It’s not uncommon to see them pacing their tank and trying everything to get noticed. Though like any animal their personalities do vary some may be more personable then others. Overall these unique reptiles make a great addition no matter your experience with reptiles.


Size
Hatchlings are usually under 4 inches in length and weigh only about 1/10 of an ounce. Adults typically weigh about ¾ o a pound and reach about 19-23 inches long. Morphs like the German Giant are known to be a bit larger, coming in at about 26 inches in length.


Housing
Dragons are commonly kept in glass aquariums topped of with screen lids. Though some hobbyists and breeders may use custom wood or plastic cages. The wood is sometimes harder to clean. The light weight plastic is easier to clean but often costs a great deal more.

For the first 4-6 months babies can be kept in 30 inch long tanks. If they’re kept in anything larger at that age it can sometimes cause problems. Finding it’s food, water, shelter, and basking shelter may pose an issue for the young dragons. However, as the young ones grow a larger enclosure will need to be used.

For one to two adults it’s recommended that at the very minimum their enclosures should be 4ftx2ft. Tanks shouldn’t be any smaller then 6ftx18inches. Single adults shouldn’t be in anything smaller then your standard 55 gallon tank. Smaller tanks restrict activity and that’s not healthy for the dragon.


Substrate
Depending on who you ask the answer on what the best substrate is varies. The best thing to do is seek advice from those with experience. Always do your research. Ultimately you must decide what works best for you while keeping the dragon’s safety in mind. 

  • Wood - This bedding is not recommended since the crickets and other feeder bugs often find places to hide. This makes it difficult for the dragons to find their food source. Crickets will out during the night while your dragon is sleeping and harass it causing them stress. 
  • Sand or fine gravel - Often used and recommended. This is the most natural substrate for your dragon. Cleaning is much easier then many other types. However, there is a risk of impaction so that needs to be considered. 
  • Rabbit or alfalfa pellets - Also used by dragon owners. The downside of this type though is there’s a higher risk for mold. When the pellets get wet they crumble quickly and if not cleaned up quick enough mold can be an issue..
  • Paper towels and newspaper - This is a reasonably sage and cheap choice. Clean up is usually not difficult. It’s especially good to use for young dragons to prevent the possibility of impaction due to accidental ingestion. 
  • Reptile carpet - Another popular choice. You can cut it to size. It gives a rather clean and neat look. However, that won’t last for long. The upside is it can be removed and washed frequently. Do be careful that’s there’s no loose ends that may pose a problem for your dragon. 

Heating              
Bearded Dragons like many reptiles need to be properly warmed to properly digest their food and remain healthy. Though you can use heat pads to raise temps they enjoy basking under a light. You can buy the expense light bulbs in the pet stores. Unfortunately they often have a short lifespan. Many choose to use regular light bulbs. Not the new energy saving funky shaped ones that don’t give up much heat.

Do not ever use heating rocks with dragons. Instead you can put a flat rock or logs to climb on. The dragon will sprawl on them and bask for hours. The basking area should be at one end of the tank. Dragons are desert animals so they enjoy the hot temperatures. However, too much is not good for them. It’s important that they have a cooler end so that they can regulate accordingly.

On the cool side temps should be around 76 and at least 10 degrees or more on the warmer side. Basking area should be about 90-100. At night the temps can drop down to about low to mid 70s on the cooler side. If your home dips below that you may want to use another heat source such as a heat pad, ceramic heat emitter, or a colored night bulb especially made for reptiles. Do not use any bright lights at night as they need to have a light cycle about 12-14 hours. Timers can be used to ensure the dragon is getting the proper lighting cycle

UVA/UVB lighting must also be used. It activates the synthesis of vitamin D3. This an important component for calcium and mineral absorption. UV rays are filtered out through glass so it’s important to place the bulbs above the tank. It’s been said that the screen tops also filter some of the rays as well. However, to protect your dragon from touching the lights or predators screens are most often used anyway. It’s also recommended that a UVA/UVB bulb be changed about every six months. You may choose to place your tank near a window for some natural lighting. Be careful to monitor the temps.


Cleaning
Cages should be spot cleaned daily. If you’re using sand then the waste can be easily scooped. Tank décor like logs and rocks should be wipe. Food bowls should be washed between each meal. At least once a week a complete clean up should be done.


Grooming
Being they’re reptiles they obviously don’t need grooming. They do enjoy their baths. Also misting daily can help keep their skin humidified and helps with the shedding process. Remember though to prevent the tank from being damp as it can lead to mold and health issues.

Feeding
Bearded Dragons need to be fed a combo of vegetables and live bugs. Some fruit can be used on occasion. The significant part of the diet should be vegetables. Hatchlings and Juveniles 10-25% and 30-50% for adults.

Although the main choices especially for young dragons are dark leafy greens high in calcium and crickets variety is important. Mealworms, wax worms, and roaches can also be used as live food sources. It’s not recommended that you catch anything outside for your dragon. The risks to their health including death are too high.

Make sure that any food you give your dragon is an appropriate sized. You can finely chop the greens and fruits. To help prevent choking and blockage while digesting be sure the food source is smaller then the width between the dragon’s eyes.


Foods Ideas
Apples
Apricot
Bananas
Blueberries
Cantaloupe
Figs
Grapes
Kiwi
Mango
Melon
Papaya
Peaches
Pears
Pomegranate Seeds
Strawberries
Arugula 
Basil
Beet Greens
Bok Choy
Carrots
Chard
Cilantro
Clovers
Collards
Dandelion
Escarole
Kale
Mustard Greens
Parsley
Parsnip
Broccoli
Corn
Cucumbers
Green Beans
Green Peppers
Kidney Beans
Lima Beans
Okra
Peas
Squash
Sweet Potato
Turnip Greens
Watercress
Zucchini
Calendula
Cactus
Flowers
Grass
Hibiscus
Leaves
Rose Blossoms
Yucca Root
Crickets
Lobster Roaches
Mealworms
Phoenix Worms
Roaches
Wax Worms


Exercise
If your dragon’s enclosure is large enough it should provide adequate room for exercise.


Life Expectancy
5-8 years, some have even made it to 12


Health Problems
For the most part Bearded Dragons are quite healthy. If they’re given the proper care and food they can live without any issues. However, there are some health problems to be aware of.

Calcium/D3 deficiency
Respiratory infections
Internal parasites and mites
Gastro infections
Pseudomona
Cocidia
Partial paralysis associated with hind leg extension
Egg Binding

Also be aware that if you house multiple baby dragons together it’s not uncommon for tail, toes, and fingers to be nipped. Dragons can’t regenerate these body parts so if they’re lost in the struggle is permanent.


Sexing
Until Bearded Dragons are about a year old they are often very difficult to tell females from males. At this age they are sexually mature and it’s easier to determine gender.

Males have triangular shaped heads. Their femoral pores (dots on the hind legs) are larger. Also two bumps on the tail near the vent can be seen.

Females heads are more narrow. Their personalities are often different then males. When they come in contact with another dragon they often wave instead of bob. Although both genders do these actions. Instead of two bumps near the vent they have one it’s more in the center versus on both sides.


Gestation
Males and females shouldn’t be housed together until they’re at least two years of age. If you’re not planning to breed them they shouldn’t be housed together at all.

The bones of the female dragon have not developed enough to withstand the loss of calcium and they’d have problems passing their eggs easily. Eggs are often reabsorbed and it’s not evident whether they had produced any. Some eggs may be creamy yellow in color and odd shaped. The abnormal eggs may end up binding up in the dragon. Due to these high risks females shouldn’t be bred unless they’re at least 2 years old.

February is usually the time of year dragons mate. The gestation period is about five weeks. Couple weeks prior to laying eggs the female will need some type of sand peat mixture to place her eggs. Typically they’ll lay about 20-30 eggs. For about 65-75 days the eggs should be incubated at about 82-84 degrees. The eggs will start to collapse about 24 hours before they’re due to hatch.

Baby dragons should be in the incubator for about 24 hours to allow for the absorbing of the yolk sac. Within 72 hours they’ll then start to feed. Pinhead crickets are ideal for this age.


Picking your Bearded Dragon
Be careful when choosing your future friend. Whether you choose to buy from a breeder or a pet store take your time. Dragons should be alert and active. If they are lethargic it’s a good chance something is wrong. Beardies bright alert eyes seem to always be watching what’s going on around them with great interest.

Keep an eye open for any sores, external parasites, burns, or deformities. Their eyes, mouths, and noses need to be gunk and pus free. It’s not uncommon to have nips but this shouldn’t cause any issues if the wounds are healed and don’t show signs of infection. Take in consideration the size of the dragon. If they’re too small or fragile looking they may stress easily causing health issues.


Common Behaviors
Dragons are predators and prey in their natural environment. Their basic defense is hide, to blend in with their environment, and always be alert to possible threats.

If dragons feel threatened or anxious they stand perfectly still. If they’re in real danger they either scamper away or they attack. Their attacks are impressive with wide mouths and puffed beards. Last resort they can and do bite hard.


Waving - In a multiple dragon home it’s not uncommon to see them wave their front arms at each other. This is their form of social signaling. Solitary beardies may do it as well.


Flattening Out - When they are warming up they may lie horizontally and spread out their abdomen to increase surface size. This typically isn’t a big deal. However, if the dragon is doing this often it may mean they can’t get close enough to their heating lamp. You can make him a shelf or perching area so that they can get closer.

Mouth Gaping - If a dragon is standing with it’s mouth open in a non defensive way it may mean they’re too hot. They can cool off a little by doing this. This is not their preferred way to cool. If you that they’re doing this often it means their enclosure is too warm. You can replace the heat lamp with a lower wattage. If after that is done and it’s still doing this it could be a sign of respiratory illness. It’s recommended that you seek a vet quickly


Rubbing - Sometimes they rub or scratch themselves against sticks or rocks. This is often done to help loose pieces of shedding skin. Try misting the dragon with water if you see this behavior. This should help with the shedding process. 


Hiding and Burrowing - At night they like to hide during the night or when they need to cool down. Dragons may also burrow into their substrate if it’s thick enough. Branches and food dishes may also act as a hiding place. As long as the dragon makes appearances during the day to warm up it’s normal. In the winter it may be a sign they want to brumate. 


Handling
Dragons are smaller and have a more predictable behavior then many other reptiles. Combined this makes them a great choice for any expertise level. Handling them safely and careful helps them become comfortable with you. This also makes them friendlier. To keep them comfortable in your presence they need to be handled daily. Start out gradually and don’t overdo it.


How 
Let them hold you. Gently grasp under the chest and midsection behind forelegs. Be sure to keep your hand open partially so that the dragon can step on you with it’s back feet. Allow them step onto your arm, shoulder, or other hand.


Handling tail
Never handle dragons by their tail. Always use caution when closing lids and doors. Their delicate tails can get injured and they won’t grow back.


Hand feeding
Another good way to build a relationship with your dragon is teach them to feed from your hand. You can start by offering them a large piece of  their favorite greens. Allow the dragon to take bites of the leaf but don’t allow him to take it. After several days offer smaller and smaller pieces. Be sure keep your grip. In time the Dragon should learn to ignore your hand completely while enjoying their food. Don’t hand feed every single time or it may lead to your dragon being reluctant to each from their dish.


Sanitation
Remember to always wash with soap and water after handling any reptile. Bearded Dragons are no exception to this. Washing your hands thoroughly after cleaning their cages and waste is very important. Diseases like salmonella and cryptosporidiosis can be spread from dragon to person. Stressed or ill dragons can have an increased chance of harboring disease organisms in their droppings. Be sure to especially cautious when caring for sick or injured dragons.



Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for these reptiles. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources. 

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