Now gaining popularity these geckos are still relatively new within the reptile community. Until 1994 it was believed that they were extinct. They come from the New Caledonian Islands near Australia.
These hardy reptiles make fantastic pets no matter what one’s reptile experience is. For the most part they are easy to care for, handle, and don’t require a lot of expensive equipment or food.
Feeding
Crested Geckos are one of the easier lizards to feed. Many use Repashy Crested Gecko Diet. It’s simply a powder that you mix with water. This mixture has the essential ingredients to keep your cresties healthy. Some care sheets online still mention feeding baby food but many do not recommend.
Hatchlings and young geckos - Repashy Diet every night.
Adults - Repashy Diet 3-4 nights a week.
Crickets can be fed as occasional treat. However, it’s not recommended on loose substrate as there’s a risk of impaction if the it’s ingested. Also it’s not a good idea to feed crickets often because the geckos may lose interest in other food.
Water/Humidity
Mist the terrarium 2-3 times daily. You can do it less in the summer when the humidity is higher. The winter months are often drier so more often may be needed.
Water is licked off the glass and tank decos. You can keep a small water dish in the enclosure but it’s not required. As long as it’s shallow enough that the gecko can’t drown this shouldn’t pose any problems. To avoid the risk of mold and bacterial growth make sure the enclosure is dry during part of the day.
Temperature
These geckos come from tropical regions but prefer cooler temps. During the day temps should be around 70-78 degrees. Anything above 80-85 is harmful and can cause stress. The temps at night can go as low as 62. Younger geckos are more fragile with extreme temperatures. Generally room temps are okay but an under tank heating pad for reptiles or a low watt blue bulb can be used if a little more heat is needed.
UV Lighting
Unlike most reptiles these geckos don’t require any special UV or full spectrum lighting.
Cage Setup
The options are endless. You can go simple or elaborate and natural looking. Many use simple Kritter Keeps with paper as substrate for young geckos. Be sure to include fake plants for them to climb on and hide in. Adults can be kept in larger enclosures like exo-terra terrariums or tanks. Eco earth can also be used as substrate when they are larger. If you want to display your geckos the natural look may be what you’re interested in.
In their natural environment they live in rainforests. They’re found on the ground and in the trees. Ideally they should be given similar conditions when in captivity.
Substrate of pea moss, coco-fiber, cypress mulch or other high humidity bedding can be used. Perches and hiding places such as branches, driftwood, or even cork bark can be used. Plants are also a good addition whether alive or fake.
Single or Pairs - 20 gallon tall aquariums make for a perfect habitat.
For larger groups - 29 gallons or larger should be used.
When considering their enclosure take into consideration they prefer to climb so something that gives them a lot of vertical space is ideal. Also for larger groups you may want to keep it as simple as possible. This allows for easier maintenance and clean up. Newspaper or paper towels make for an easy to use substrate. Get creative when considering hiding places. PVC pipes, cardboard tubes, egg crates, and other similar objects are good choices. Place a small plastic box with moist peat moss with a small hole cut for entry can be used for egg deposition or humid hide.
Adjustment Period
Give your new arrival some time to get adjusted to it’s new home. They can become stressed from the transport. It’s not uncommon for them to be stressed and go off feed for several days.
Be sure their enclosure is set up properly and that should speed up the adjustment period. Typically they become stressed if their cage is different from what they’re used to. Many breeders keep reptiles in rack like systems so that the reptile is house in plastic containers. Usually the only heat source is heat tape and the only lighting is the room light.
Geckos can do well in these environments. Most owners owner don’t wish to keep their new friends in a set up like this and choose glass tanks. There’s more decorating options and they can experience and interact with the reptile better. Problem is geckos don’t care for change. Glass may end up causing stress. This may increase if the daytime is brighter then what they’re used to.
These night dwelling reptiles don’t care for bright lights. They prefer to hide when exposed to it. If you choose to still use a tank be sure to take precautions to help them adjust as easily as possible.
Tips
- If a bulb is used be sure it’s a nocturnal blue bulb. An under tank heat pad can also be used as a heat source.
- Warm, dark, and humid hiding spot should be provide to make to feel secure.
- For the first couple weeks don’t handle them often.
- To help the gecko adjust to it’s new tank tape up black construction or cardboard to all the walls. Each week remove a piece. Within a month all sides will be removed.
- Dietary changes can cause stress so keep them on the food type they’re used to.
- If you’re adding a gecko to an already established group sure it’s separate for about a month to let it adjust. This also gives you time to watch for any health issues.
- When placing it among other geckos be sure they’re all about the same size. Always keep an eye on food intake to be sure they’re all feeding and maintaining their weight. Do not put more then one male together no matter the size of enclosure.
Handling
Generally they are easy to handle. Although some tend to be flighty or may try to bite. They should be handled several times a week to help them get adjusted. Avoid handling them in a rough manner. They may stress out and drop tail. Crested will not grow back their tail if this happens.
Longevity
Relatively new to captivity it’s not known exactly how long these unique geckos live. It’s estimated that they will live an average of 10-15 years in ideal living conditions. Some may even live as long as 20 years.
Sexing
Until they are about 5 months old they can’t be accurately sexed. When they’re that age and about 15-20 grams in weight they begin to show characteristics that define their gender. Males develop large bulges at the base of their tails. If a bulge is present on females it’s only slight.
Breeding
Sexually mature at about 12-14 months of age these geckos are easy tot breed. However, do not attempt to breed them until they’re about 35-40 grams.
Until it’s time to breed males need to be raised away from females. Once both are mature they can then be placed together. Be sure to keep an eye for any signs of aggression during this period. Do not place more then one male together as they’re extremely aggressive with each other.
Late fall or early winter geckos should be put through a cool prior to breeding. If there’s a heat source on the cage it should be turned off. For about 6-8 weeks they should be kept in temps in the upper 60s. They may not eat as much but continue to feed them twice a week.
When the room is back up to normal temps they should begin to lay eggs in their nest boxes. Usually every 3-6 weeks eggs will be laid. Up to 18 eggs are usually laid in one season.
Incubation/Hatchling:
Check every other day for eggs in the nest boxes. Pure white with a solid feel are signs of a healthy egg. Any that are small or spongy are likely to be infertile.
Place the eggs in a deli cup or small plastic container in about 1-2 inches of perlite or coarse grade vermiculite. Add water in a 1:1 ratio by weight. It must be moist enough to pack when a handful squeezed no water should drip.
The eggs will take up too much water and mold if too moist. On the other hand if they’re too dry it’s likely they shrivel and dry up. It may take some practice to get the consistency correct.
Place 1-2 tiny holes into the side of the container to provide fresh air. Anymore then that and moisture will be lost and it’ll kill the eggs.
Incubating temps should be at about 74-80. Temps close to 80 will quicken the process. Typical “reptiles rooms” should be warm enough that the containers can be kept on a shelf. If the room is cooler then 74 a Hovabator incubator can be used. They’re relatively inexpensive and can be found at most reptile suppliers. Be sure they’re set up and calibrated before they’re needed.
After 6-12 weeks the geckos will hatch. You can then set them up individually in plastic shoe boxes. Babies may be placed in small groups as long as they’re similar in size and there’s enough hiding places are provided. About 3-4 days after hatching they should start feeding.
Color and Pattern Morphs:
Crested Geckos come in many patterns and colors. Most of these are bright and vibrant.
Color examples - cream, red, orange, yellow, charcoal, brown, gray, tan, olive green.
Pattern examples - pattern less, bi-color, harlequin, fine striped, pinstriped, tiger-banded, Dalmatian-spotted
Morphs - Named by combining color and pattern. For example: Red Fire Dalmatian would be a red gecko with a fire stripe running down it’s back and Dalmatian spots.
Polymorphic - This means any combo of breeder can produce multiple color/pattern morphs in their offspring.
Selective breeding similar traits will most likely produce offspring with those traits. This process is just picking up. In time a lot of new morphs will be created.
Note - There’s many opinions, conflicting information, and care sheets out there for the way to care for Crested Geckos. As with any animal it’s important to always do your research. Be sure to check out many sources.
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